Please follow the trouble shooting steps to the right and if you are still having difficulty with one of our pedals, please email us at [email protected]
TROUBLESHOOTING & REPAIRS
Before submitting a request for a repair or questions about a broken or non-working pedal, please follow the DIY troubleshooting steps below. Following the steps below is a quick and effective process that we have developed over years of emails involving repairs and alleged malfunctions. These steps will help you first determine whether the problem is the pedal itself or a possible external issue. Following these steps can save you time, money, and most of all, your sanity
For information regarding our Warranty, please head over to our Warranty, Returns, and Repairs page. When it comes to repairing a pedal that is a non-JHS-Warranteed pedal, there is $30 bench fee. This fee will be applied toward the cost of the repair IF the repair is performed and completed. In the event that the pedal has no issue and cannot be fixed the fee will still be rendered for our time/service. For domestic repairs, return shipping is free. For international repairs we charge $25 shipping, which is the international rate minus the price of domestic shipping..
After following all the troubleshooting steps below and if your pedal is still problematic, please email us at [email protected] and we’d be happy to take care of any malfunctioning or broken pedals.
1. Make sure your pedal has power. All of our pedals run off of 9v DC power. All of our pedals (with the exception of the Honey Comb Deluxe) have the DC jack on the top of the pedal. Guitar Input is always on the right and output is always on the left. Not having your pedal plugged in correctly, could cause instant death….not really, but it could make you go crazy.
2. If you consider your pedal to be abnormally noisy, make sure your power supply is isolated. (This is key! Refer to the “Tech Articles” section of our site under the article titled “Powering Your Pedals (Does it really matter?)”. The symptoms of using a low-quality and/or non-isolated power supply can include, but are not limited to: switch pop, hissing, white noise, or kung-fu movie punch noises. In addition, “dirty power” in whatever room, house, lounge, subway station, elevator, or venue you’re playing at could also affect your pedal’s performance. For more info on the importance of clean power you can also refer to this article published in December 2011 by Premier Guitar Magazine titled Powering Your Board. Lastly, other issues that may produce noise in pedals are single coils in the “in phase” positions, standing too close to your amp, or having too many Boss DS-1’s on your board.
3. If your pedal seems to be cutting volume when engaged, check to make sure all cables are plugged in, are making good connection, and are not bad. A continuity tester will tell you if you are getting a connection, but will not tell you how much of your signal is making it all the way through. Solder-less cables are known for this issue. Make sure all cables are functioning properly and have strong connections.
4. If your pedal is not powering up, this is a problem. Make sure you have not plugged in the wrong power supply to your pedal. Power supplies that do not work well with our pedals include, but are not limited to: line6 power supplies, 18v supplies, AC power supplies, microwave power supplies, car batteries with jumper cables, or 1-Spot.
5. A final step is to isolate your pedal on it’s own with a single cable coming from your guitar to the input and a single cable coming from the pedal’s output into your amp. Note that these cables need to be working and your power should be isolated. If your pedal mysteriously works when you have it isolated away from the rest of your gear, then there could be various issues with other parts of your gear. If the pedal is not functioning when it is isolated in the manner suggested above, then “Houston we probably have a problem” and it’s probably time to fill out our Repair Inquiry form and send that sick puppy to get fixed up.